How Modern Textiles Came To Be | The History of Ordinary Things

In 1664 English naturalist, Robert Hooke, predicted a fiber “if not fully as good, nay better” than the silk fiber produced by the silkworm. Nearly 200 years later in 1855, a Swiss chemist, Audemars, used the fibrous inner bark of a mulberry tree as his source of cellulose to make artificial silk. He formed threads by dipping needles into the solution and drawing them out.
In the 1880’s, Sir Joseph Swan extruding this cellulose solution through fine holes to produce silk threads. He developed this technique to produce filaments for the new electric lamps. In 1885, Swan showed fabrics crocheted by his wife from this new fiber, but he did not pursue its textile possibilities.
In 1889, a French chemist, Count Chardonnet, produced an artificial silk yarn called rayon that caused a sensation at the Paris Exhibition. In 1924, the Celanese Company began the commercial textile production of an acetate fiber.
In 1931, an American chemist, Dr. Wallace Charothers, working for DuPont, discovered a new miracle fiber, nylon – the first fiber synthesized completely from chemicals. Nylon stockings were first shown in 1939 at the San Francisco World’s Fair, and by the following spring American women were in love with this new stocking. During WWII, nylon replaced Japanese silk in parachutes, tents, tires, ropes, ponchos, and military supplies, and was even used in U.S. paper currency.
Polyester was created in the early 1940s by two British scientists working for Calico Printers. It was introduced into textiles in the early 1950s. At this same time, DuPont produced acrylic, a wool-like fiber. In 1952, “wash and wear” first appeared in a blend of 60% acrylic and 40% cotton. Triacetate arrived in 1954 making it possible to have crisp, permanently pleated fabrics. Spandex, a stretchable fiber created by DuPont in 1959 was originally used in bras and jockstraps. The 1960s introduced aramid fibers, also known as Kevlar or Nomex, which are lighter and tougher than steel, and fire and electricity-proof.
By the late 1950’s, nearly 30% of the fibers used by American textile mills were man-made, and today’s basic fibers had all been created. After this period, fiber blending became widespread and the industry introduced modifications to the basic generic composition resulting in flame retardant, cling-free, soil resistance or anti-static properties. Each enhancement was the result of the addition of some kind of chemical. In the 1970s, flammability standards, initially demanded for children’s sleepwear, were legislated.
Today, globally, synthetics make up 62% of all fibers produced, with about 55% of the total being polyester. Synthetics dominate the clothing, apparel, and home furnishings market, with a notable increase in the carpet industry. Synthetics are popular for outdoor gear and furnishings because it repels water and does not decompose from contact with sunlight.
The U.S. is the 2nd largest exporters of textile-related products globally. The U.S. industry specializes in advanced, high-value products like military-grade fabrics, medical textiles and smart, conductive materials that can watch vital signs.
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